In Brisbane we want zero sun in Summer, a tiny tiny bit in Spring and Autumn and a reasonable amount in Winter. Analysis is straightforward and shows:
Shading Take 1 : Base
Bottom row: Winter. If you see windows (in red), it’s okay.
Analysis:
- L2 east facade needs strong external shading. Operable shades would be best, or horizontal slats to maintain view would be okay.
- L1 east : will have screens and these should be dense.
- L2 north: needs more overhang. Extending the roof would be an option but it would have to come out a long way. Window hoods would be fine and more traditional.
- L1 north: Medium overhang via continuous element. The wing roof overhang is about right – 100% sun in Winter. Could be slightly bigger to block more spring sun.
- L2 west: no windows is preferred or tiny
- L1 west: Movable shade is required. A fixed shade (pergola) would block winter sun. A pull down or around would work. Must be pretty dense.
Shading Take 2
Let’s make these changes and re-test: external operable shades to west, slats to east, overhangs to north enlarged. Try a west window as a horizontal slot.
That’s not great: full Sun at 6am! With intense, 2:1 (i.e. 200mm deep @ 100mm spacing:
Shading Detail – East
Do we need expensive operable shading on L2 at the front? Let’s try fixed shading:
So for the east (and west) it’s either very deep fixed shading (ugly), or operable shading. These could be electric. A cheaper version would be manually operable, as it only needs moving rarely. An even cheaper option is internal “plantation” shutter, but interior shading lets in a lot more heat than external.
Shading Take 3 – Final
And here is the summary:
- Operable shading to east and west.
- No windows to west if possible. Few to east.
- Traditional window hoods (600 deep) with eastern sides to L2
- Dense battens for L1 east
- Overhangs to L1 north: 600mm, then 900 for deck
